Thursday, January 10, 2013

Finishing up

Tuesday, we surveyed our last house garden in Buena Vista, which is a little way from Valley of Peace, and did some errands. Then, we spent the rest of the day chilling at Banana Bank.

Wednesday, we went into Belmopan to check on my permit from the Forest Department. They looked at my plants, but were unable to get my permit until Thursday. So, we went back to Banana Bank and killed time. I took a long nap and dad did a bunch of Internet surfing. Thank goodness for my laptop!

Today, we went back to the Forest Department around mid-morning, as requested. I picked up my permit and then we went to BAHA, the Belize agriculture and health, in Belmopan. Unfortunately, they decided to send us all the way to San Ignatio to get my plants inspected. This is a step that I luckily avoided in 2010. We drove all the way to San Ignatio, only to find that the inspector was out at a field site and we would be unable to get my inspection report until after lunch. So, we left the plants and my permits there. Then, Ernesto's truck would not start, so we sat around as he and Dad tried different things to get it to start. Then, we pushed it down a hill, but it still would not start. Finally, a nice man stopped and pulled Ernesto's truck down the road a bit, and it started right up. We had lunch in San Ignatio, and then went back to pick up my plants. Luckily, everything was done! Ernesto had to go back to Belmopan to get fertilizer for a friend, and then he dropped us off at Banana Bank. Tonight will be an evening full of packing, eating up food, and basking in some sun before we head back to winter wonderland.

Tomorrow, we head back to Belize City, and take Dad past the ocean, which he has been dying to see for about a week now. And then back to the states. I will return to finish up my dissertation research this summer. Hard to believe that my time at UIUC is coming to a close, and that my research is winding down. I could not have accomplished this trip without Ernesto, Cleofo, Mrs. Choc, Stanley, the lovely people at Banana Bank, and of course my dear old Dad. Until this summer!

Monday, January 7, 2013

Last weekend

Sundays, everything closes down in Belmopan pretty much, so Dad and I sat around Banana Bank all day doing odd jobs. We reorganized plants, watched some Star Trek, worked on the packing and food situation, and were generally lazy.

Today, we went into Belmopan, and that was our big adventure for today :). We had lunch at an Asian restaurant, and then got some odds and ends from the grocer. I had the classic donut from the awesome bakery that is close to the Bull Frog, and then we had coffee at the Bull Frog. It rained a lot today, so we alternated between draping our raincoats over our backpacks and sweating from high humidity! We got some novelty food items, like cheese, and that was pretty much our day. Tonight, Internet willing, we might watch another classic movie, like Jaws or The Sting. Otherwise, we will probably stuff our faces full of donuts and ramen and get our packs ready for my last "field day" tomorrow!

Sunday, January 6, 2013

Cahal Pech and Xunantinich

Cahal Pech mound

Dad on the same mound

Plaza

Dad on another mound


Down a tunnel





XUNANTINICH
Largest mound

View from the middle level


View from the top

Overlooking the other mounds


Dad with his classic pose




Saturday, January 5, 2013

Long Day

I woke up late again today, a little before 8am!  We took a taxi into Belmopan and arrived just as the bus to San Ignatio was loading, so we quickly purchased tickets and boarded.  It was another rainy day, so all the windows were up in the bus.  In addition, someone had taken it upon themselves to be the personal bus DJ, and they played really loud rap music from their phone.  Further, I was sitting next to the window where someone had deposited some gum, and then a hair had gotten into it.  Then, after my seat companion got off the bus, an old lady sat down next to me and she had one of the dreaded ants crawling around on her shirt, so I scooted as close to the window as I could.

We finally got to San Ignatio and wandered around the market a bit.  Then, we went back to the shopping area and looked around again.  As we were heading out to find a taxi to take us to the Maya site of Cahal Pech, one drove past and the driver yelled at us.  So, we loaded in with 3 others that were already in the taxi and set off for Cahal Pech.  On the way, the driver made us a deal if we would let him take us to both Cahal Pech and Xunantunich, another Maya site.  Since I had never been to the second site, we agreed to his deal.  As it turned out, he had a bit of a personal agenda in cutting us the deal.  He lives near Xunantunich and he wanted to take his little girls from fried chicken from the big city :)

Cahal Pech was as memorable as ever, and it rained again.  I have never seen Cahal Pech on a sunny day.  Also, Dad ended up buying some things at the gift shop there, so it was a worth-while trip.  Then, we took off for Xunantunich.  We crossed on a ferry (that the ferry man pulled by hand) and the driver dropped us off for our trip around.  The site was incredible, and much larger than Cahal Pech.  We climbed to the top of the largest mound just as it started to drizzle again, so we ended up having to take it slowly on the way down.  No use losing your footing on slick Maya stone stairs.  Luckily, I had packed an umbrella that was given to me on the UIUC campus some years back by a campus fellowship group.  Unfortunately, the umbrella is a tad broken.  At Cahal Pech, we ran into a couple that were also stuck on the bus when the tire blew yesterday, and at Xunantunich, we ran into a girl who was also on that bus. 

The driver of our taxi wanted to take us back to Banana Bank, and was trying to cut us a deal, but we decided to take the cheaper option via bus and were dropped off in San Ignatio again.  We visited a few more shops, got online at a bar/grill and had some coffee, and got a few more items off of my list.  At this point, it was past 4pm.  I had wanted to go to a natural food type store that I had seen on the edge of town, and Dad was prepared for us to walk there, but I figured it was too late so we waited for a bus.  Sure enough, as soon as we had boarded, it started really raining again.  Also, at this point, the nice story of the day begins to take a turn for the worst.

I was very sick on the ride home.  It was a combination of: the bad time of my month, a bad season to be driving in a school bus in, a bad time of the day to be without food, and tons of bad smells.  My trip was a battle with my stomach and my head: I felt both nauseous and faint.  We got back to Belmopan and I moved close to the door so that I could get some air.  Then, we were dropped off at the Banana Bank road and began to walk, in the rain, down a long road with loads of deep puddles, at dusk.  Around the first corner of our long walk, there was some guy dunking clothing and food into puddles.  He looked very strange, and I am fairly certain that the things he had were not his own.  Then, he looked up at us and asked where Belmopan was.  At this point, both Dad and I became nervous, and walked fast to get away from him, after politely answering his question of course.  I had, until this point, very much doubted that I could get Dad to move very fast at all.  I will say now that he can almost outlast me.  We moved very quickly through some very puddley areas, and needless to say our shoes, socks, and Dad's pants got soaked.  We were high on adrenaline and looked behind us for signs of the strange little man, but saw nothing.  Then, as we finally reached Banana Bank, it was dark.  I yelled and Dad rung the gong on our side of the river until some poor American tourist came out in her shorts to assist us.  She decided that, after walking all the way down to the river, she couldn't help us and went back to get someone else.  She was gone for a short while, and returned to say that help was on its way.  It started pouring and I found out that my umbrella also leaks on the inside.  Poor Dad only had a rain jacket, which he draped over his backpack and head.  After 30 minutes of heavy rain, mosquitoes, and no sign of life, the boat guy finally arrived.  As it turned out, he was summoned from his home and had to drive over to Banana Bank, in the rain, and then pull the boat across to get us, with his flashlight clenched between his teeth. 

It wasn't the most settling of days, and I am still without food.  So, I think I will eat now :)  Hopefully, tomorrow has less adventures!

Banana Bank

 Dad in the pool.


 Caroline's Cafe (next to the pool).


 Where's Dad-o?


 The office.


 The back of the office: another group of nice rooms.


 Our first place of residence.


 The house watch dog?


 A garden behind the office.


Heading toward the pool.

Valley of Peace

 Part of Cleofo's sisters house garden, that we surveyed.


 The local mechanic.


 Cleofo's house, renovated!


The laundry is out~!

Final days at Yalbac

 This little guy is a friend of Banana Bank.  Say hello to the poor little chained spider monkey.


 You wouldn't guess it from the photo, but these are really amiable guys.  Why am I always the only one smiling?  Also, I think Dad and Cleofo could be twins in another life.......


Working on a mound site with Stanley


 Standing in Cleofo's milpa.


 Stanley and I at the center of the plot.


Goodbye, Yalbac! 

Friday, January 4, 2013

San Ignatio

Last night, the "Taiwanese Belizians of the Holy Oil" zapped the Internet (or so my racist instincts told me), and dad and I went to bed super early and without the satisfaction of having done anything fun online for the evening, like watching Jaws or surfing eBay!

We got up this morning around 530 and started zapping the Internet strength before the others here could get up. After some frustrations with PayPal, I went back to bed around 630, and then dad didn't get me up until 8! We hailed a taxi and went to the Forest Department, where I finally received my permit for plant collections! So hurray for the holiday vacations around here finally coming to a close!

Then, we rushed back to the bus station and waited for a bus to San Ignatio. Dad and I parted ways for a bit while I returned some paperwork to the Forest Department, and I had two different males call me "baby girl". Dad thinks it is because I am wearing shorts, but I protested. Two years ago, I had a "worse" treatment (if you call many different males day after day yelling sexist things at you worse) and I was wearing past my knees dresses. Perhaps it would be better if I dressed like the Belmopan locals: lace shirts with black or neon pink bras shining through and tight pants or leggings, or, the classic big-boobed approach, a too-small spaghetti-strap shirt with another bright colored bra under it and a skirt that hugs the booty. I have yet to decide on my summer clothing options, but I do think I will include at least a few long-ish type skirts in the collection.

We finally got on the bus, and it was so packed that they had to refuse some people. Then, almost to San Ignation, I was pointing out to Dad signs for a particular shop that my adviser is fond of. As fate would have it, less than a mile from the shop we blew a tire. Guess where the driver pulled into? We all waited our fate outside, and one Amish boy and a regular Belizian hitched a ride with a truck. Then, another bus passed by and took on as many of us as possible. Probably less than half. Shortly after that bus pulled out, it started to rain. We went to a nearby village and they changed our tire, and then it really started pouring. So, of course, we pushed up all the windows on the half-full school bus and held our breaths, and our noses. One more passenger hitched a ride with the next bus, which didn't give us any warning, and therefore only the one passenger outside was able to catch it. And then a few more left with another car. Finally, about two hours and many greasy hands later we got to San Ignatio, just as it started to rain again.

It was an on-again, off-again rainy sort of day, but other than that it was nice. We went to the market and quite a few little shops. We managed to secure a few choice items, and a rather nice lunch at a place that served garden salads! And I got a little Internet time at a small, American-run cafe that another field school student and I had discovered on another rainy day in San Ignatio two years before.

As Dad was entering the last store of the day, we spotted our bus. It was going back to Belmopan, so we caught a ride back in yet another storm. All the windows had to be closed again, and this time with a packed bus. The air was mixed with the smells of musty old bus, massive BO, and massive amounts of cologne attempting to cover the BO. As a result, I was a tad light-headed, and rather glad when we could open our window again. Of course, as soon as we opened ours, the guy across from us also opened his and the draft gave me goosebumps. Haha- you can't be too picky around here!

We returned to Belmopan and Dad went to get bananas from the market and I explored. I was called "little girl" by yet another guy, but this one was a tad less obnoxious in his approach. Then, we hailed the same taxi driver that frequently picks us up from Banana Bank, and we got home just when the sky was starting to get dusky.

Thursday, January 3, 2013

The "odd jobs" day

Last night, per Dads request, we watched "Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid". Basically, we are getting more and more exhausted and a tad too relaxed at the end of our journey.

Today, Ernesto took us into Belmopan and drove us around like a regular chauffeur. I think we bored him, but otherwise it was a good time. We stopped by the market and got dad some more oranges, stopped in to a hardware store, dads favorite bakery, the forest department office, and dads favorite supermarket. I purchased the ingredients for a sound pasta. Hopefully it tastes as good as I hope :)

Then, we went to the Valley of Peace and Ernesto dropped us off at Mrs. Chocs house. Stanley took us on a tour of his aunts house, which now has new tenants, and I surveyed the house garden. Basically, it has every kind of fruiting tropical tree that you could possibly think of, and then some! Mrs. Choc made us a lovely lunch, complete with juice, and I got a glimpse of the 3-week-old Choc grand baby.

Ernesto returned with his son, Carlos, and a bike that I ended up buying for my summer trip. It is a pretty pink girlish bike with sturdy wheels. Unfortunately, the last rider was a tad taller than I am, so poor Ernesto had to adjust the seat for me down as far as it could go. I am very pleased with it. On the way out of town, we picked up Ernesto's family again, and he dropped us off at Banana Bank. Thus begins our long, 4- day weekend to see San Ignatio and Cahal Pech (Maya ruins), bug the forest department some more, and do some things around here.

As I was sitting here, some middle-aged Taiwanese guy, from this large Holy Oil church group, walked up to me. I greeted him in Mandarin, and surprised him by saying that I had actually visited Taiwan and picked up a few limited phrases. He then proceeded to teach me how to say "hello, and God bless you". It pretty much went in one ear and out the other, so when he returned to test my new knowledge he almost had to reteach it to me. In case I run into him again, I have spelled this phrase phonetically in my iPad for easy retrieval!

Wednesday, January 2, 2013

Final day at Yalbac

Updates: Dad and I have been enjoying a little late-night tele via Netflix. So far, we have watched Oceans Eleven and Charade. My computer has the worst speakers and Dad has pretty bad hearing, so that usually calls for absolute silence during movie time, with the computer as close to Dad as possible. The first night in the new room was great, and we didn't wake up to the sound of dozens of birds squalling. So, it was pleasant.

We went to Mrs. Chocs for breakfast, and Cleofo had been told that his starting day is tomorrow, not today, so we took him into the field with us one last day. We resurveyed Mound 73, from 2010, and two new sites. And all before 1130! It was a rather warm day, but with the windows rolled down on the return trip it was pleasant. We picked up Ernesto's crew on the way back to Banana Bank. So, I got to interact with his two youngest daughters- making faces at them, smiling, telling the Mom when they spit up, etc.

We pressed the last of the forest specimens and left them outside to bake in the heat. Then, Dad decided to take a dip in the pool, and I took many photos of him on his insistence. So, sometime soon I will post photos of a short hairless man with a stern face walking around in a large pool.

Banana Bank has been overrun with Chinese Christians from a church called "Holy Oil". Some of them greeted me in English, and I took the opportunity to greet them in Mandarin, which I think they appreciated. There are now dozens of little Asian kids about yay-tall running around, fighting, screaming, laughing, making mischief, while the adults are all upstairs in a worship service of sorts. I think they were speaking in tongues earlier. However, it was difficult for me to tell of course. I mean, they could have been speaking fast Mandarin, Spanish, or even a Creole English (or really any other language besides English) and they could have fooled me. I got to chat with a newbie to Banana Bank, an Ellen lady who is a riding instructor and here to ride like a cowgirl, and tell her where to go to see all the sights here.

Dad is back in the entryway to our room, which is open air and has a large table at it. I think that is his favorite room, even over our own room. There goes the speaking in tongues again. Having never been present at even an English rendition of this, it is an interesting sound. Dozens of people speaking all at once in many tongues, and then phasing right back into a song.

One of the workers, who rode up on his horse, walked over to me to see what I was doing. He told me that, from his vantage point, it simply looked like I was tapping furiously on the table in the cafe. This has amused me.

Tuesday, January 1, 2013

New Year's Day

We spent this happy holiday wandering around Yalbac with Cleofo, Ernesto and Stanley (Cleofos oldest son). Overall it was a good day. We located a couple of sites to survey while Cleofo is away working, and set up plans for the remainder of the week. We also took a quick tour of Cleofos milpa on the outskirts of Valley of Peace.

When we returned to Banana Bank, we switched rooms. This one is much smaller, with only two beds and one small room, but it has air conditioning and HOT WATER!!!!! You could hear the hallelujah chorus as I took a very hot shower after my long day.

I forgot to mention from yesterday that, while we were not even halfway through the first survey when I sat down on a log and ripped a sensitive part of my jeans. The open air flow was nice, but the exposure was not. I have sense retired those jeans and will repair them when I return to my sewing machine ;) Also, we have been having the worst time with ants. They crawl into our shirts and start stinging us. Today, they weren't as much of a problem, but the last few days have been major stinging ant days.

Can't believe it's already 2013! This field season is already half over.